Cheap*fashion
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To understand how fast fashion came to be, we need to rewind a bit. Before the 1800s, fashion was slow. You had to source your own materials like wool or leather, prepare them, weave them, and then make the clothes.
Fast fashion impacts garment workers who work in dangerous environments, for low wages, and without fundamental human rights. Further down the supply chain, the farmers may work with toxic chemicals and brutal practices that can have devastating impacts on their physical and mental health, a plight highlighted by the documentary The True Cost.
Many retailers we know today as the fast fashion big players, like Zara or H&M, started as smaller shops in Europe around the 1950s. Technically, H&M is the oldest of the fast fashion giants, having opened as Hennes in Sweden in 1947, expanding to London in 1976, and before long, reaching the States in 2000.
Other big names in fast fashion today include UNIQLO, GAP, Primark, and TopShop. While these brands were once seen as radically cheap disruptors, there are now even cheaper and faster alternatives like SHEIN, Missguided, Forever 21, Zaful, Boohoo, and Fashion Nova. These brands are known as ultra fast fashion, a recent phenomenon which is as bad as it sounds.
There is also a growing interest in moving towards a more circular textile production model, reusing materials wherever and whenever possible. In 2018, both Vogue Australia and Elle UK dedicated entire magazine issues to sustainable fashion, a trend being taken up each year by more and more big names.
Yes Friends is a UK-based fashion brand that creates sustainable, ethical, and affordable clothing for everyone. Yes Friends' first product, classic cut t-shirts, cost less than 4 to make and the brand only charges 7.99. Using large scale production and direct to consumer margins means Yes Friends can charge you an affordable price for its sustainable and ethical clothing. Find the range inclusively sized in 2XS-4XL.
One consequence of cheap clothing received international attention in 2013, when an eight-story garment factory in Bangladesh collapsed, killing more than 1,100 workers who were manufacturing clothing for American and European retailers.
The biggest carbon culprit in fashion is fiber production. Energy use and CO2 emissions are highest during the fiber extraction process, especially when creating synthetic fibers, which originate from petrochemicals. Synthetic materials like polyester, rayon, nylon and acrylic are essentially a type of plastic made from petroleum and can take hundreds of years to biodegrade. Synthetic polyester, for example, is made via a chemical reaction involving petroleum, coal, air and water. Polyester accounts for 51% of textile production.
Thirty-five percent of primary microplastics (particles less than 5 millimeters) in the ocean are linked to the fashion industry (190,000 tons per year). A lot of this is generated from washing synthetic materials such as acrylic and polyester (found in items like stretch jeans, leggings, and other cheap clothing).
Fashion is also thirsty. Roughly 20% of global wastewater (79 trillion liters, or nearly 20 trillion gallons) is used in the fashion supply chain every year. Cotton is a notoriously water-intensive crop. Simply growing the cotton for one pair of jeans requires more than 2,500 liters (660 gallons) of water, roughly the amount of drinking water for one person for 3.5 years. Distressed jeans are even more water-intensive.
Many workers in the fashion industry endure health and safety hazards and low wages. Garment workers in Ethiopia, for instance, earn a base wage of $26 a month, where the monthly living wage is around $100 per month. The U.S. Department of Labor reported evidence of forced labor and child labor in the fashion industry in Argentina, Bangladesh, Brazil, China, India, Indonesia, the Philippines, Turkey and Vietnam. H&M, Forever 21, GAP, and Zara are some of the recognizable brands that have been involved in child labor and forced labor scandals.
The invention of the Jacquard loom in 1801 made the speed of creating textiles much faster and cheaper, as did assembly line production and synthetic dyes, invented in the 1850s. More abundant and low-cost textiles aided the development of the department store retail model, which depended on high sales volumes, lowering the cost per item of clothing.
The present-day fast fashion model really took off in the late 1990s, following the establishment of the World Trade Organization (WTO) in 1995. With the WTO in place, global tariffs declined significantly, encouraging trade and opening markets across the globe. With global import and export tariffs reduced, the fashion industry was able to move each step of the supply chain to the country with the lowest bid.
The European Union appears to be leading the way in legislation. The circular economy package adopted by the EU in 2018 will, for the first time, require that member states collect textile wastes separately from other recyclables by 2025. And, though not specifically aimed at fashion, the landfill directive requires member states to reduce municipal landfilled waste to 10% by 2035.
Designers can make changes such as creating low or zero-waste patterns (patterns where none of a piece of fabric goes unused). Designers can also create more classic and uniform collections with modifications for the traditional two to four seasons instead of the 12 to 24 collections per year now expected by fast fashion outlets.
There are many groups and campaigns aiming to raise awareness around the perils of fast fashion. The slow fashion movement, much like the slow food movement, focuses on clean and fair production and emphasizes the artisanal. The #slowfashion tag reached around 500,000 people on a day on Twitter in late April 2020.
The nonprofit Fashion Revolution has launched its Fashion Revolution Week to campaign for systemic reform of the fashion industry this week, April 20-26, on the anniversary of the Rana Plaza building collapse.
Once a consumer knows what goes into putting a shirt on their back, what are they to do While consumers alone cannot bear the brunt of changing an entire industry, increasing the demand for slower and more sustainable fashion may have some power to shift the market.
Niinimäki and colleagues urge consumers to move away from the idea of fashion as cheap entertainment; to engage in slower, more conscious consumption; and to extend the use time of each garment through investment and care.
Brands that promote more sustainable fashion choices are often more expensive. This is because, according to Hartsock, these prices reflect the true cost of paying fair wages and not cutting corners to avoid environmental regulations. However, these pieces are typically made of higher-quality fabrics and stitching and will last longer.
Citation: Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T., & Gwilt, A. (2020). The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews Earth & Environment, 1(4), 189-200. doi:10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9
When I first discovered sustainable fashion, I was a sophomore in college. Living on a college budget and trying to keep up with fashion trends is challenging enough; adding eco-consciousness to the mix leaves you with pretty limited options.
More sustainable fashion items are typically more expensive for a number of reasons. A notable example is the higher quality of materials being used in garments. For example, when comparing materials such as organic cotton and conventional cotton, consumers learn that organic cotton is grown without harmful pesticides. Since organic cotton uses less chemicals, this crop requires more up-keep. On top of the high quality of materials being used, ethical brands pay their farmers and employees a living wage, which has to be factored into the price of the garment.
When kickstarting a conscious wardrobe, try starting with the basics. Simple swaps such as t-shirts and underwear are typically a more budget friendly place to start. Another wonderful way to celebrate eco-friendly fashion on a budget is by shopping second hand or hosting clothing swaps.
éclipse is a slow fashion brand featuring everyday basics and activewear under $100. Its bold colors make the eco-friendly clothes stand out from the crowd. éclipse exclusively uses 37.5 Technology patented fabric that embeds activated carbon particles directly into fibre, which increases the surface area by up to 800% and imparts superior performance characteristics. The clothes are also packaged in biodegradable cellophane bags. Products are stocked in sizes S-XL.
ABLE is a US-based clothing and accessories brands, that works with communities all over the world to stop the cycle of poverty by producing slow fashion and paying a living wage to women who have faced extraordinary circumstances. They have a wide range of pretty jewellery below $100. Find the range in sizes 2XS-2XL.
Rapanui clothes are made from natural materials using renewable energy. Rapanui practices a circular supply chain by making the products from materials it recovers. All of its garments are designed to be sent back and repurposed once worn out. This is a great way to reduce the waste of the fashion industry and invest in eco-fashion. Find a 5-pack of organic cotton tees for just 38. Find the range in UK sizes 8-18.
To avoid the problems of fast fashion, choose garments that were made sustainably and ethically. For example, you can look at the most sustainable fabrics and buy from companies that treat their workers respectfully, paying them proper wages.
So whether you prefer to browse well-known stores like J.Crew and Athleta or to peruse online boutiques like Verishop and Garmentory, these are 35 of the best cheap online clothing stores to bookmark and shop.
The word fashion may not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Amazon, but the online shopping giant is a goldmine for unexpected clothes, shoes, and accessories. (Does the Amazon Coat ring a bell) Look out for coupons for additional discounts or try-before-you-buy options. And the majority of pieces are delivered to your doorstep with two-day Amazon Prime shipping, of course. 59ce067264
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